King Fisher Inn
4 Qtr 2004 issue #006
Welcome to this issue of our quilting
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I told you in the last newsletter, the quilt to the left was juried into the
Pacific Northwest Quiltfest. Even though I didn't win a ribbon for the
entry I found the comments from the judges to be very useful. I know
now where to focus efforts to improve, and I have already been given solutions to
one of the problems. I will share this information in the tips section of
the newsletter. I was very impressed with the promptness of the Quiltfest
organizers in returning the quilt.
This is the first time I have entered a juried show, but I am already planning my 2006 entry, and I encourage you to do the same.
King Fisher Inn had its first open retreat the first weekend of October. It was fun, productive and participants had an opportunity to meet other quilters. A free long-arm class was provided to those who were interested, and a hands-on demonstration of set-in seams was given. We have scheduled another open retreat for the first week of November, which has been filled.
I was asked to schedule another open retreat in early February, to help break up the winter blahs. We have set the date for February 4th, through 6th. The rate for the two days, with a light dinner on Friday evening, three meals on Saturday and breakfast on Sunday is $130 per person shared occupancy, or $180 for a private room. Note, all prices are plus tax. If you are interested, call on our toll free number 1-888-622-8216. A $40 long-arm quilting class will be provided to participants free of charge.
One of the judges comments on my quilt was that it didn't lie completely flat. I was told by a friend that I could easily fix that problem by wetting down the quilt and blocking it, much as you would block a doily after it is finished.
When setting in seams, I get better results if I start at the inside corner and sew out. I do this in both directions. This eliminates the pucker or gap that often happens at the inside when sewing from the outside to the center.
Store your marking pens with the tips down. This will keep the marking solution in the tips. If a fairly new pen seems dry, dip the tip into water and replace the cap. Store the pen, tip down, for several days. This will often refresh the pen.
Silk and polyester threads can be used successfully for hand appliqué and hand stitching bindings. Rayon thread doesn't work well. It will twist and fray.
This tip comes from Karen Kidd of Port Angeles. She made a beautiful Christmas quilt which was backed with polar fleece. Instead of tying the quilt, she used fancy buttons in the cornerstones and sewed them through all layers, with the knots in the back. The results were stunning. The buttons sparkled on the front and the quilt was snuggly on the back.
To prevent distortion from removing pins as you are sewing seam, use silk pins and sew over them. They are fine enough that if they are hit by the needle they will bend without damaging the needle or the machine's throat plate.
When pinning a seam, place the head of the pin so that it is to the left of the seam line. Make sure the tip of the pin doesn't extend beyond the edge of the fabric. When the pins extend beyond the fabric edge, they can catch on seam guides and distort the seam. This is especially true if you are using tape on the machine bed to mark your 1/4 inch seam allowance, or are using a quarter inch foot that has a right hand flange.
Technique of the Quarter: Stamping
on Fabric With Pigment Inks
Stamping on Fabric With Pigment Inks
There are a wonderful array of stamps available today. Since I am a Stampin' Up demonstrator, as well as a quilter, it was natural that I would experiment with using stamps in my quilts. Along with pigment ink pads, and fabric pens these stamps can allow quilters to create unique printed fabrics. They can also be used on quilt labels, or to put a whimsical touch to a photo transfer quilt. Below are some of the techniques that have worked best for me.
Wash and press your fabric. If the fabric is light weight, iron freezer paper on the back.
Use large stamps that don't have fine detail lines.
Use pigment (permanent) ink pads. I use the Stampin' Up and Versa-Craft pigment pads.
To make a more interesting image, try using the pads that have several colors. I used the Versa-Craft multi colored pad, with the Stampin' Up leaf stamps in the example. You can see the transitional colors in the individual leaves.
Use an ink color that will show up on your fabric. Make sure the stamp is evenly inked. Stamp from directly above the fabric. Don't slide the or tilt the stamp.
Some images may be stronger than others, depending on the amount of ink applied to the stamp and the amount of pressure used during stamping. The differences will add interest to the finished fabric.
Let the stamped fabric dry for 24 hours, then heat set with your iron on a cotton setting.
Wash small amounts of the heat set fabric in your washing machine, using its gentlest hand wash cycle. Make sure you use a medium to large load setting so there is lots of water. Use 1 cap of Syntrapol as detergent. This will suspend excess ink in the wash water.
Remove from the washer immediately after the cycle is completed. Separate the fabric by shaking out large pieces, or by pulling smaller pieces away from each other. Dry the fabric in the dryer until it is just barely damp.
You can either cut large pieces from the completed fabric, as you would any yardage, or fussy cut stamped sections to use in your block.